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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.